Cucumbers in the greenhouse: feeding and watering, light mode


← Read the previous part "Growing cucumber seedlings"

Cucumber by June. Part 3

Caring for plants during fruiting

Temperature regime

In sunny weather + 26- + 28 ° C, but not higher than 30 ° C, in cloudy - + 18 ° C, at night - + 12 ° C ... + 16 ° C. The flowers of cucumbers are not durable, in the northern regions they usually open in the morning at 6-7 o'clock, live for 1-2 days, and then close. In the south, in hot weather, they are open from 4-5 o'clock in the morning until noon.

The stigma of female flowers is especially susceptible, and the pollen of male flowers is most viable in the first hours after their opening, when fertilization occurs. Cucumbers bloom at temperatures not lower than + 14 ° C ... + 16 ° C, anthers crack at + 16 ° C ... + 17 ° C. The most favorable temperature for fertilization is + 18 ° C ... + 21 ° C, these temperature conditions for fertilization are one of the reasons for me to open a greenhouse early, so that there is no heat there.



Top dressing

After planting seedlings cucumbers I spend the first feeding in about two weeks, because the ridge has already been filled with superphosphate and full mineral fertilizer, I irrigate as the soil dries up. At this time, prolonged cold snaps begin, and on such days I do not water or feed.

What is freezing? This is -2 ° C ...- 6 ° C at night, and the sun during the day. This means that on a sunny day I heat the water up to + 24 ° C and water it. Before the beginning of fruiting, I carry out feeding taking into account the ratio of nutrients N-P-K = 1.5: 1: 1. Here, there is more nitrogen in the top dressing, and potassium is already added. You can feed during this period "Kemira-combi", where N-32%, P-12%, K-53% + 9 microelements, but better "Kemira-lux", where N-32%, P-20%, K -27% + trace elements. There are readily soluble fertilizers in small bags with different formulas for the content of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, such as "Crystalon" and "Aquarin".


For example, a plant develops poorly and blooms. It was determined that there is not enough phosphorus, i.e. did not fill the ridge with superphosphate or sprinkle it less than the norm, then you can give top dressing "urea phosphate" - this is an easily soluble fertilizer N-17%, P-44%, 25 g sachet for 20 liters of water, consumption for 4 m². Or another example - "Crystal-yellow" - also an easily soluble fertilizer N-13%, P-40%, K-13% and microelements, 20 g per 20 liters of water, such fertilizer can be used to feed seedlings if the soil is not prepared applied no fertilizer.

For all the years of working with cucumbers, I have never noticed a lack of phosphorus, probably the superphosphate that I bring to the ridge, there is enough for my cucumbers, but I also add it in dressings. Before fruiting, after planting seedlings, I feed once with Irkutsk humate or Ideal and once with Kemira-Lux. During fruiting, the formula for the ratios of the elements is N-P-K = 1: 0.5: 2. Very well suited "Kemira-universal" (I used to use Finnish fertilizer), where N-32%, P-14%, K-54% + microelements. But "Kemira-wagon" should not be dissolved in water, but it is better to be embedded in the soil.

I use an easily soluble fertilizer "Solution" grade A, where N-10%, P-5%, K-20%, Mg-5% + microelements, sometimes I use "Solution" grade B .. My cucumbers grow on biofuel from hay , therefore, nitrogen and potassium are strongly washed out. In this regard, the soft fertilizer "Solution" A alternates with "Solution" B, where N-18%, R-6%, K-18%, there is no magnesium in it, there are microelements. Until 15 years ago, the range of fertilizers for gardeners was not so diverse. I used a nitroammophoska, but twice a season I did foliar feeding with microelements.

According to the standard, fertilizing is carried out after 7-10 days, but I determine by the leaves, by the fruits, whether the plant has enough of everything. In order not to get confused in feeding, I keep a diary for each crop, and if we compare the records for several years, then the year does not look like a year, it all depends on the weather conditions.

I calculate something like this: I planted the seedlings on May 3, and before planting I fed them, which means that I will spend the first about May 15-17. If the weather is cold, then Irkutsk humate or "Ideal", or fertilizer "Ripen-ka", what will be at hand. By May 26-28, I have fruits, which means I need "Solution A" or "Solution B", I look at the leaves, fruits. In early summer, June 7-8, I use strong crimson potassium permanganate. I feed the cucumbers with slurry on June 15-18, and 10 days later again with "Solution A" or "Solution B".

In the first week of July, on the 7-8th, I use an infusion of herbs for feeding, and on July 16-18 - Azofoska. A decade later, I repeat the feeding with slurry. At the beginning of the last summer month, August 6-8, I use potassium permanganate with boric acid. After another ten days, "Solution A" or "Solution B" are used. The last feeding of cucumbers is done on August 26-28 with slurry or herbal infusion. In September, I no longer feed the plants, I only water them.

I do not use stimulants for growth and fruiting, since proper care: airing, loosening, feeding - give a good harvest. If the soil in the greenhouse is scarce, especially for novice gardeners, then humates can be fed, and more than once. I don’t have manure as such, but a bedless mullein is brought by car in bags, so manure feeding is provided. Manure or weeds in the tank (the tank is in the greenhouse) ferment, emitting carbon dioxide, and this is an additive to the crop of 20-30%, next to the peppers and tomatoes receive carbon dioxide.

If you have cucumbers growing on manure, then you do not need to feed the slurry with slurry, and you do not need to put a tank with weeds in the greenhouse, because the manure decomposes, carbon dioxide is released, and this is enough for the plants. In the process of decomposition of manure or biofuel, in addition to carbon dioxide, methane and ammonia are formed, which inhibit plants. Therefore, it is necessary to open the greenhouse early, especially small greenhouses. If cucumbers grow on manure in a greenhouse, then it is better not to put the weeds there for fermentation, and if you do, then the film at the greenhouse must be opened early in the morning after 7 o'clock.

In the open ground or with the use of temporary shelter, cucumbers require 4-5 times less nutrition, some scientists believe that it is 10 times less (I agree with them), since food is obtained from the soil, from the air, but also the yield in the open soil from 1 m² will be 4-5 times less than in greenhouses.

Preventive measures against diseases

When growing seedlings, I spray it once with this solution: I pour 1 glass of skim milk into a liter jar, add water to a liter there, add 2-3 drops of iodine. I spray the leaves on both sides, the soil. Before transporting the seedlings to the site, including tomato, I spray the peppers with the homeopathic remedy "Healthy Garden" according to the instructions. If the spring is very cold, protracted, but then the warmth suddenly sets in, then I spray the cucumber plants with "Healthy Garden" again - this is already in the greenhouse. There are other preparations, but I have been using Healthy Garden for over 10 years.

After laying hay, hay dust remains in the ridge, which I use against powdery mildew... I pour the dust into a bucket, fill it with hot water, wrap it up, let it brew for 1-2 days, filter it, pour 1 liter of infusion into a watering can, add warm water and pour over the plants, soil, the passage in the greenhouse. This can be done when the plants have 4-6 leaves.

Airing, and I have 2 doors, does not allow the air to stagnate, because in stagnant air they appear rot... I open it at about 7 o'clock in any weather. In the daytime, on the Karelian Isthmus, the wind rises - this is during the day, I close one door so that there is no strong draft. If I go or go somewhere, the neighbors open one door. The gables at my greenhouse are completely open after the last frost and close before the first autumn frost (about 15-16 August). Even in a rainy, windy summer, they are open, i.e. in the upper part of the greenhouse everything is blown out.

A craftsman in our gardening made removable frames on the leeward side of the greenhouse. At the end of June, he took them off, the harvest was excellent, and in mid-August he put the frames in place, but by that time the cucumbers had been completely harvested for the whole winter. I close the door earlier in the evening to keep warm. If you open earlier in the morning, close earlier in the evening, then the drops are less.

All "surgical" operations on plants - various pruning - I carry out early in the morning, so that the wounds are dry by evening.

Light mode

Cucumber is a short day plant. At the end of May, we already have a long day, a light night, and late sown cucumbers, when they start flowering, fall into white nights. But most often gardeners are advised not to rush to sowing. I knew that some kind of failure in the development of female flowers was appearing. Therefore, growing through seedlings is a way to get away from the influence of white nights, i.e. when growing seedlings, I needed a short day.

It was only in 2001 that I received an accurate answer to my questions. In a brochure published by Manul, I read: “Factors such as a short day, low night temperatures, high solar radiation, optimal or increased levels of nitrogen in the soil, carbon dioxide increase the expression of the female sex. Long day, high daytime and night air temperatures, low air and soil humidity, excess potassium shift the sex towards the male side. "

Often people turn to me with the question: "Cucumbers are blooming, but all barren flowers." If it turns out that the gardeners were reseeding cucumbers, and the reseeding happened at the end of May, and the cucumbers emerged in the first ten days of June, then I always answer: "Wait for dark nights." For example, once in Rostov-on-Don I also had a plot, and there I did not think about a failure in flowering, since there night is like night, day is like day. According to the observations of scientists, the length of the day affects in the initial period, and then the cucumber plant is considered a neutral day plant. To some extent, this is so. I calculated the yield of cucumbers at different ages. And from my practice I conclude that more of them are tied on dark nights.

When growing cucumber seedlings, I use a backlight (60 W fluorescent lamp), turn it on at 10-11 am, and turn it off at 20-21 hours. On cloudy days, I turn on the backlight for seedlings, but I try to lower the temperature to + 18 ° C (I cover the battery with a blanket, open the inner sashes of the window). I do not turn the seedlings on the windowsill, they grow in one direction, leaning towards the window. When disembarking in a greenhouse, it already on the second day stands flat, straight.

Water mode

I water the seedlings so that the clod of earth does not dry out, but is moist, but not wet. It depends on the temperature in the apartment. If you are afraid to overflow, then it is better to once again spray the plants with water. I have a hand sprayer on the table, next to the seedlings, I can humidify the air at any time, but I also spray the plants. If, for some reason, you dry out the soil, and the seedlings have grown strongly, then do not immediately fill it, but gradually water it in several steps.

I sometimes use this technique. The heating of biofuel in the greenhouse is going well, the spring is warm, early, and the sowing was slightly delayed. Then for the seedlings I skip 1-2 watering so that it will plant. There is an expression "hanging ears." By doing this, I accelerate flowering. Once, in her lectures, V.V. Perezhogin. This cannot be done during fruiting.

Read the ending "Formation and rejuvenation of cucumber lashes, harvesting" →

Read all parts of the article:
Part 1. Preparation and sowing of cucumber seeds for seedlings
Part 2. Growing seedlings of cucumbers
Part 3. Cucumbers in the greenhouse: feeding and watering, light regime
Part 4. Formation and rejuvenation of cucumber lashes, harvesting

L. Klimtseva, experienced gardener


Watering cucumbers and maintaining air humidity in the greenhouse

Based on the biological characteristics of cucumbers (first of all, a powerful leaf apparatus and a superficial underdeveloped root system), they are considered one of the most moisture-loving plants.

It should be borne in mind that not only sufficient soil moisture is important for a cucumber, but also high air humidity (the optimal air humidity in a greenhouse is considered to be 85-90% on sunny days and 70-85% on cloudy days).

But overzealousness in holding watering cucumbers in the greenhouse no less dangerous than drying out plants. With too frequent and abundant watering, the thermal regime of the soil and its aeration are disturbed, an insufficient amount of nutrients and oxygen is supplied to the root system of cucumbers, which leads to a delay in development, rotting of the roots and is fraught with the spread of fungal diseases.

Even novice gardeners know that you can get a good harvest of cucumbers only with regular and sufficient watering. But there are different opinions about how to properly water cucumbers in a greenhouse, to maintain optimal air humidity.

Undoubtedly, watering cucumbers in a greenhouse should be carried out with water with a temperature of at least 22 degrees. When watering with cold water, the root system of cucumbers is poorly supplied with nutrients, which leads to plant disease and even their death.

I am always suspicious of categorical recommendations on the frequency of watering (such as once every three days, or once a week).

The need for watering should be judged by the condition of the plants. And the frequency of watering cucumbers in a greenhouse can depend on many factors: the prevailing weather conditions, the type of greenhouse, its location on the site, ventilation conditions, rates of previous irrigation, whether the soil is mulched and many others.

Therefore, we will agree in advance that the recommended below frequency of watering cucumbers in the greenhouse at various stages of their development is approximate.

During the rooting period of cucumber seedlings in the greenhouse, watering should be carried out quite often (after one or two days). Again, everything will depend on how much the root system of the seedlings was disturbed when it was planted in the greenhouse, whether the soil is mulched ...

In the future, before the start of flowering cucumbers, in order to exclude the build-up of excessive leaf mass to the detriment of fruiting, the plants need to be watered moderately (after 3-5 days), spending 1 sq. m 4-5 liters of water.

But with the appearance of the first ovaries, the entry of cucumbers into the stage of mass fruiting and harvesting, the demand of cucumbers for the presence of moisture in the soil increases significantly. During this period, I spend watering cucumbers in the greenhouse in 2-3 days, and in hot and sunny weather - every other day, spending on each square. m in several steps up to 12 liters of water.

I water it along the grooves made 15-20 cm from the plants, trying not to wet the leaves and stem in order to exclude decay of the root system of the cucumbers. It is not recommended to water the cucumbers under the root with a stream of water, which leads to exposure of the roots and even to the disruption of the entire root system of the plant.

Sometimes, in sunny and hot weather, cucumber leaves begin to wither even after watering.

To "revive" the plants, it is permissible to make a refreshing watering-spraying on the leaves from a hose with a fine spray, - the air humidity will increase, the temperature in the greenhouse will decrease, and the dust removed from the leaves will improve the process of photosynthesis in plants.

You should not be afraid of the appearance on the leaves of cucumbers, the so-called "sunburn" in some sources of country information.

Judge for yourself, in nature, the sun often peeps out after a heavy pouring rain, and this does not harm the normal development of cucumbers.

At the end of the growing season, watering of cucumbers in the greenhouse should be significantly reduced, since excess moisture in insufficiently heated soil contributes to the development of diseases and, first of all, damage to the root system and rotting of the stem.

It is better to water cucumbers in the greenhouse from 10 am to 1 pm, then during the daytime the air humidity will increase significantly, and at night less condensation will form on the ceiling and walls.

And in order to constantly maintain optimal air humidity in the greenhouse, install a pair of containers with a volume of at least 100 liters of black color in it. They will perform other important functions in your greenhouse - smooth out the difference between day and night temperatures (which is very important for a cucumber) and warm the irrigation water to the desired temperature.

During the day, warm greenhouse air will heat the water in the tanks, and due to this, a lower temperature will be maintained in the greenhouse on hot days, and at night the reverse process of heat transfer by water will take place. It will be possible to regulate the air humidity in the greenhouse by opening or closing the lids of the containers located in the greenhouse.

Excessive humidity in the greenhouse also harms the normal development of cucumbers. Therefore, immediately after watering cucumbers in the greenhouse, you need to provide good ventilation. Otherwise, in conditions of high air humidity, pollination processes deteriorate, favorable conditions are created for the development of fungal diseases.


Climate of the Moscow region

When choosing a variety, study the climatic features of the region. The Moscow region is classified as a territory with a temperate continental climate due to the region's remoteness from vast water bodies and ocean currents.

Agrotechnologists characterize the Moscow region as a zone where:

  • long summer without sweltering heat
  • moderately cold winter season with heavy snowfall
  • frequent thaws and rapid melting of snow in spring
  • it rains or snows at half of the day throughout the year
  • daylight hours in summer reaches 15 hours
  • the growing season is 140 days with a favorable temperature regime above +10 degrees
  • the beginning of the winter period no earlier than mid-November
  • snow melt by early April
  • 1/3 days completely cloudy
  • only 17% of the days are clear.

Cucumber culture is whimsical to light and temperature conditions. Create optimal conditions for growing seedlings. Cucumber seeds for the Moscow region require careful selection of varieties in order to quickly get a rich harvest of tasty, environmentally friendly vegetables.


Selection of the best varieties of cucumbers for greenhouses + a table with a description and photo

If you have chosen the greenhouse method for growing cucumbers, then their varieties should be either self-pollinated or parthenocarpic. Otherwise, you will not get a crop, since due to the lack of insects in the greenhouse, the fruits simply will not be tied. What is the difference between these two types of crops similar in name?

  • Self-pollinated. These cucumbers have both a pistil and stamens in one flower. Accordingly, pollination takes place without external interference.
  • Parthenocarpic. In such cucumbers, only female flowers are formed, they do not need pollination for the formation of fruits, but such cucumbers will practically not have seeds. Therefore, leaving a couple of seed crops for the next reproduction will not work. It is believed that such fruits are not suitable for conservation, but this is not entirely true, you should carefully read what is written by the manufacturer. There are special parthenocarpic varieties that are great for pickling and pickling.

Among self-pollinated cucumbers, there are also varieties and hybrids. You can get seeds for the next season only from varietal cucumbers, hybrids are useless for this, you will have to buy them annually.

Why, then, are hybrids needed? The fact is, these cucumbers are adapted to the harsh Russian conditions, they have a high yield and resistance to both diseases and temperature extremes. There are special hybrids that are suitable for early planting, they do not require long daylight hours for normal growth and development, and they feel comfortable in the shade. For preservation, their fruits can be used, while the taste is preserved.

If you set yourself the goal of harvesting the whole summer, then you can choose varieties of hybrids in such a way that the early ripening plants give fruits already at the beginning of summer. Most of the cucumbers are best planted with a medium ripening period to make winter harvests from them. Additionally, you can plant a small number of late varieties so that at the end of summer you can pick a cucumber from the garden at the table.

The fact that this is a hybrid can be judged by the F1 marking on the seed package. Below in the table we have prepared for you a description of the most popular hybrid cucumbers with different characteristics among gardeners:

He loves warmth, needs a consistently high air temperature. The growth of the lashes is unlimited, the ovaries grow in the form of a bundle

Juicy crispy fruits can be eaten fresh or used for pickling.

Does not like active sun and bears fruit well in conditions of its deficiency. Resistant to temperature changes and many diseases characteristic of cucumbers. The fruits are juicy, crunchy, there is practically no seeds inside, they are so small.

Does not acquire bitter notes even with poor watering and late harvest.

All of the above varieties do not need insects for pollination and grow well in greenhouse conditions.


Seedling flowers

What can be grown in a greenhouse from flowers? Usually these are plants that are classified as indoor plants, but there are different types of flowers that grow outdoors. It is most profitable to grow early varieties. The methods of growing flowers in a greenhouse are very different. These can be seeds, bulbs, tubers, and other options. At the same time, it is important to provide acceptable conditions for the plants.

You can come up with flower planting schemes yourself. However, the plants should not be cramped, as they will not be able to develop properly. In winter, a reliable heating system must be provided. This is important as most flowers are thermophilic. Another important point is getting enough light. If it is not enough, then additional artificial lighting should be used.

Different ventilation systems, temperature conditions, shading systems may be acceptable for different colors. Therefore, these factors must be taken into account if it is supposed to grow in parallel in the same greenhouse, for example, roses and tulips. In doing so, do not forget that different colors may have different requirements for the level of humidity.

Growing different crops in a greenhouse must follow certain rules to achieve good results. Each plant grows under certain conditions.


How to pinch cucumbers in the open field: video

Good afternoon, dear readers!

Cucumbers are one of the most common vegetable crops in our country. They are grown both in private farms and on a large, industrial scale. There are quite a few varieties of this culture, but Herman is one of the best in many respects.

It is high-yielding, allowing several crops to be harvested per season. It can be grown in various climatic conditions indoors and outdoors.

The content of the article

  1. Description of the variety of cucumbers Herman
    1. Benefits of the Herman variety
    2. Cons of this hybrid
  2. How to grow Herman cucumbers
    1. Seedlings
    2. Sowing in open ground
    3. Forming a whip
    4. Video about the cucumber variety German
    5. Reviews on the cultivation of this variety

Seedling method: pros and cons

There are two ways to plant cucumbers: by sowing seeds directly into the garden bed or by growing seedlings first.

The second method is more time consuming, but is considered preferred by most gardeners. Especially in central Russia and northern regions, where spring comes much later.

Growing seedlings in a heated greenhouse or on a windowsill, the owner provides himself with early cucumbers.

The advantages of this method:

  1. seedlings fall into open ground after the end of frost, there is no need to fear that they will be damaged by the cold
  2. in the process of indoor cultivation, it is easier to follow young cucumbers, assessing their condition, and feed them
  3. the seedling method of growing allows you to get the first cucumbers in the open field at the end of May. But such cucumbers leave very quickly and by the month of July the lashes usually dry up.

If the size of the estate allows, it would be good to find a place on it for sowing cucumbers. They appear later, but bear fruit safely until the end of the season. During the summer, you can always sow new plants to replace the drying lashes.

How and where to plant cucumber seeds for seedlings

Seeds are sown in pots with soil at the rate of approximately 0.3-0.5 liters per seedling root. The capacity can be any:

  • cardboard or plastic boxes - it is imperative to make several holes in them for the outflow of liquid
  • special peat cups, in which the cucumbers are then planted directly into the ground, have only one drawback - they very quickly lose moisture
  • cellophane rolls fixed with a stapler or paper clip - to get to the root when planting, they are simply unrolled.

The pots are placed back to back on a common tray for easy maintenance. Fill with prepared soil and sow two seeds in them in order to remove a weaker shoot later. Sowing depth no more than 3 centimeters.

If the seeds are planted in a common container, then the distance between them is kept two centimeters and three centimeters between the rows. With such a planting, you will have to dive the seedlings later. Not everyone finds this procedure helpful.

The container with seedlings is watered, covered with a damp cloth and placed in a dark place until germination. For about 5-7 days. The optimum temperature for seedlings should be from 18 to 25 C. Overheating is no less dangerous than cold.

Watering should be done often - once every two days. Warm melted or settled water. This should be done in the morning, at the beginning of daylight hours. Cold and hard water is harmful to seedlings.

Cucumber foliage loves bathing, moisture can be sprayed from above with a spray bottle.

A little trick: so that water does not stagnate in the pots, they can be installed in a plastic mesh box, which, in turn, can be raised on a stand so that air circulates under the container with seedlings.

Top dressing is carried out when the first pair of leaves appears.

Mineral fertilizers for cucumbers

  • specialized ready-to-use mixtures for cucumbers
  • urea 20 g, potassium sulfate 20 g, superphosphate 50 g, diluted in ten liters of water.

  • chicken droppings or mullein, diluted with warm water in a ratio of 1:10
  • a three-day infusion of onion peels, banana peels or eggshells, prepared from three parts water and one part chopped biological material
  • wood ash diluted in hot water in a ratio of 1:10
  • an aged solution of 1 g of bread yeast in a liter of water.

Cucumber is a short day plant. For intensive development, seedlings need individual lighting:

  • for them you need to choose the brightest place, but not in direct sunlight
  • daylight hours for cucumber seedlings should last ten hours
  • if there is not enough natural light, fluorescent lamps are installed above the boxes.

We plant seedlings in the ground

It is reasonable to plan the location of crops on the estate for three to five years in advance, so that the soil does not deplete, and the vegetables do not get sick or degenerate.

A garden bed for cucumbers must be prepared in advance, adding rotted manure under the previous plantings.

A place for cucumber beds must be chosen in an illuminated, wind-protected area. In warm climates, these can be furrows deepened on a shovel bayonet. For growing cucumbers in the north of the country, you can organize warm beds in a wooden case.

Such beds are prepared in advance. First, they knock down and install a wooden box according to the size of the future garden. The whole season you need to put organic matter in a box: food leftovers (except for meat and fatty ones), grape trimmings, chopped branches of fruit trees, fallen leaves. Over the winter and summer, all this decays; in the fall, you need to fill the compost soil with a layer of 10 centimeters from above. In early spring, cover the bed with an old film. Organic matter gives off heat, and the bed warms up well. This makes it possible to plant cucumbers at an earlier date.

The usual landing is started when the ground temperature warms up by 12-14 degrees. Fertilizers (humus and mineral complex mixtures) are applied to the ground. After that, the pots with seedlings are well filled with water, and the plant is extracted from them. The less the root system is damaged during transplantation, the better.

The cucumber is deepened along the cotyledon base, poured with warm water under the trunk. Sprinkle the place of watering on top with a layer of loose compost. At first, it is advisable to shade a bed with transplanted seedlings with a black non-woven material.

Two bushes are planted per square meter - these plants need a lot of space for weaving.

The best precursors for cucumbers

In order for the cucumbers to grow well and not get sick, it is necessary to choose a place for them taking into account the rules of crop rotation:

  1. previous plants should enrich the soil with the elements they want, not make it too acidic
  2. it is good if the root system of the previous plants lies at a different depth than the cucumber
  3. cucumbers with previous plants should not have common pests and diseases.

Tomatoes and cabbage perfectly fit this description. Cucumbers will grow well in the garden after onions, garlic, legumes, carrots and beets.

Neighbors are also very important - ideally, it is corn or sunflower, as a screen from cold winds. Also do: lettuce, beets, beans and savory.

Planting method directly into open ground

Cucumbers begin to be sown directly into the ground in late May or early June. As the lashes dry, new seeds can be planted to harvest until late summer. For these purposes, it is better to make the garden bed in partial shade, it can even be under the trees, outside the crown.

Preparing the soil for sowing seeds is similar to cultivating seedling beds.

When planting directly into the ground, it is not recommended to germinate the seeds first. They are sown in wells heavily flooded with water to a depth of 1.5-2 centimeters, maintaining a distance between seeds of 20 centimeters and between rows of 60 centimeters.

After planting, the bed is covered with cellophane wrap to retain moisture and elevated temperatures. If the street is 25 C and higher, then it is not necessary to do this during the day.

Before the seeds germinate, they make sure that the soil in the garden is not covered with a crust, it is regularly moistened and loosened. Loosening is carried out until 4-5 true leaves appear, until the plant enters the phase of horizontal growth. Top dressing for sowing cucumbers is applied by analogy with cucumber seedlings.

Proper care allows you to extend the fruiting phase of cucumbers. First of all, the yield is lost when there is a lack of heat and moisture. If the summer is cool, then at night the cucumbers continue to be covered with cellophane.

Sometimes it is necessary to set up a non-woven tent for the day to protect from the wind or too hot sun.

Watering cucumbers is carried out only with warm, settled water, preferably no later than 16-00 o'clock, so that the moisture on the leaves has time to dry before nightfall. This should be done at least once every two days. Frequent watering erodes the fertile layer, so periodically it is necessary to add rotted manure or compost near the root.

From the beginning of fruiting, liquid organomineral dressings can be added to the water.

Root dressing of cucumbers

With this type of feeding, nutrient mixtures are introduced into the soil, under the root of the plant. They can be held once a week or ten days. The composition of the mixture is selected based on the external signs of a lack of a particular substance:

  • if the fruit has pointed, underdeveloped tips, then the plant needs nitrogen - 1 tablespoon of urea per 10 liters of water
  • expanding, short fruits indicate a lack of potassium - 2 cups of wood ash per bucket of water
  • you can prevent the leaves from drying out by feeding from 4 tablespoons of superphosphate per 10 liters of water
  • to stimulate growth, they are fed with fermented infusion of nettle and other weeds - a large container is filled with chopped grass, water is poured and left for a week under a lid
  • whey supplements (1 liter per bucket of water) serve the same purpose.

Cucumbers are fed on damp ground, early in the morning.

You can also feed cucumbers by spraying nutrients from a spray bottle onto the leaves. Foliar dressing is often used for preventive purposes. Along the way, such procedures help to solve the problem with many pests and diseases.

Spraying is best done early in the morning, choosing cloudy days, so that the moisture has time to evaporate before bright sunlight hits the leaves. On such a day, you can stretch a non-woven material over the treated bed.

  1. To increase the yield, before flowering, cucumbers are sprayed with a solution of boric acid at the rate of 10 g per 10 liters
  2. spraying with a solution of 1 g of calcium nitrate in a liter of water strengthens the immunity of cucumbers
  3. spraying with a weak solution of potassium permanganate save from pests such as spider mites and aphids
  4. from late blight it is useful to water the leaves from above with a daily infusion of wood ash (0.5 liters per 13 liters of hot water)
  5. the prevention of powdery mildew and root rot is spraying with 30 drops of iodine and a liter of milk whey per 10 liters of water
  6. for the same purposes, you can use bread (one loaf per 10 liters of water) or yeast (10 g per 10 liters of water) infusions with 10 drops of iodine
  7. spraying with a solution of urea at the rate of 15 grams per 10 liters of water enriches the plant with nitrogen and helps fight weevils and aphids.

The procedure is carried out in the same way as root feeding - once a week or a little less often. If there is a fear of burning the leaves, then initially you can take half the dosage of the nutrient mixture and increase it gradually.

When tying cucumbers, the main thing is not to damage them. It is necessary to use wide nylon or cotton ribbons, do not overtighten the stem. If possible, only create conditions for natural weaving and support the plant.

Above, two main methods of growing bushes have already been described and it has been noted that it is more convenient for open ground to form horizontal whips. This is due to the fact that plants lying on the ground suffer less from wind and bright sunlight. However, if you set an arc over a horizontal bush and start several shoots along it, this will allow the cucumber to branch over a larger area.

Above the furrow with cucumbers weaving along the ground, you can also install four supports and stretch several lines of wire or twine on them parallel to each other. A low-growing bush will curl along these supports.

Vertical cultivation is suitable for tall varieties or hybrids planted in a closed area from the wind. It should be noted that this method is more time consuming, and the plant grown in this way needs more attention.

  1. the most successful - weaving on a grid - a support is installed near the garden bed, on which a nylon or plastic net is fixed, the central shoot of the plant is fixed on it vertically
  2. weaving on a thin vertical support - a vertically stretched twine or a rod stuck into the ground is used as a support for the whip
  3. weaving on a V-shaped support is suitable for growing a bush formed from two lashes
  4. weaving on a pyramid - several bushes are allowed from different sides onto the pyramid from twine or wire stretched to a common rigid support.

Some varieties of cucumbers can be used to braid gazebos and decorative hedges.

Techniques for increasing the yield of cucumbers

With timely watering and fertilization, a competent garter, the following methods can also increase the number of fruits:

  1. when the cucumbers grow, the first four ovaries must be removed so that the plant gains strength before it starts spending them on the ripening of the crop
  2. when a large number of "male" flowers are formed, cucumbers need to arrange stress - reduce feeding, lower the temperature or skip watering
  3. spraying the foliage with a weak honey solution (1 teaspoon per liter of water) will attract insects for better pollination and enrich the plants with microelements
  4. when growing hybrids, it is worth planting several bushes of a bee-pollinated variety next to them
  5. ripe cucumbers must be picked daily, carefully cutting them off with disinfected scissors.

Diseases and pests of cucumbers

Cucumbers are quite vulnerable to common garden pests and diseases such as powdery mildew, late blight, root rot.

Diseases can be prevented by observing the rules of hygiene of the garden:

  • timely and high-quality harvesting of crops and plant residues
  • following the rules of crop rotation
  • disinfection of seeds and tools
  • purchase of only high-quality seed.

Prevention of diseases and pest attacks also serves the introduction of appropriate foliar dressings (as described in detail above).

Several recipes for chemically harmless pest preparations that can be used at the first sign of aphids or ticks:

  1. a glass of tobacco, a glass of wood ash, a tablespoon of shavings of laundry soap, pour 10 liters of boiling water
  2. half a bucket of chopped onion peel, one glass of wood ash is poured with boiling water, a tablespoon of shavings of laundry soap is added there, then they act in a similar way
  3. 10 g dry red pepper, 100 g tobacco, 2 tablespoons of soap shavings per 10 liters of boiling water

The above funds are insisted for a day, filtered, and then the leaves are sprayed from bottom to top. Then be sure to loosen the ground in order to destroy the fallen pests.

Compared to ready-made insecticides, these drugs are less effective, but do not cause harm. It is worth resorting to them several times a season, as a preventive measure, so that you do not have to later use the "heavy artillery" of industrial chemistry.

When choosing varieties for planting, you need to focus primarily on local varieties, or bred in similar climatic conditions.

Giving preference to a hybrid or choosing varietal cucumbers is an individual choice of the gardener. With the variety available (more than 500 varieties and hybrids), you can try out the best of the proposed options on your site.

They are usually devoid of bitterness. They have higher immunity. Every year, more and more hybrid variants appear for different purposes.

The only drawback of hybrid cucumbers is that you cannot harvest seeds from them. To resume the cultivation of a cucumber with remarkable characteristics next year, the planting material will need to be purchased again.

Some of the most popular modern hybrids are:

German F1 - parthenocarpic, high-yielding early ripe hybrid, resistant to diseases, fruits up to 10 centimeters long, pimply without bitterness.

Miranda F1 is a universal ultra-early ripening hybrid with high immunity, fruits up to 11 centimeters long, without bitterness.

Chinese cucumber is a tall hybrid, vertical cultivation is shown, fruits reach 60-70 centimeters in length, have exceptional taste, are devoid of bitterness.

Masha F1 is a parthenocarpic hybrid, early ripe, small-bumpy, fruits up to 11 centimeters, have a sweetish taste, devoid of bitterness, good for conservation and fresh consumption.

The friendly F1 family is a parthenocarpic hybrid with a high yield, short fruits with longitudinal stripes are well suited for conservation, without bitterness.

When growing varietal cucumbers, you can collect seeds and thereby save on the purchase of planting material.

Growing for several generations in a certain area, the variety adapts to local conditions. The owner personally participates in the selection, choosing suitable specimens for subsequent cultivation and improving them year after year.

Description of a range of varietal cucumbers suitable for outdoor cultivation:

Phoenix is ​​a versatile late-ripening variety with fruits up to 14 centimeters, has a high yield and a classic cucumber taste.

Serpentine is an early ripening, drought-resistant variety, has a high immunity, the fruits of universal use are 9-9.5 centimeters in length.

Vyaznikovsky-37 is a mid-season variety, the fruits reach a size of 11 centimeters, suitable for salting and fresh consumption.

The droplet is a high-yielding late-ripening variety, the fruits reach 14 centimeters, have a classic cucumber taste, and are versatile in use.

Aquarius is an early ripening variety, the fruits reach 14 centimeters, gives a plentiful long harvest, the fruit taste is excellent, the use is universal.

Taking into account all the advantages and disadvantages of hybrids and varietal cucumbers, it is possible to form several rules for gardening, allowing to optimize costs and the result obtained.

  1. seedling cultivation
  2. places in the greenhouse
  3. pinching, forming in one or two lashes
  4. vertical garter.

  1. sowing cultivation with a harvest until the end of summer
  2. melon cultivation method in dry land
  3. pinching the main lash according to the classical method
  4. horizontal garter.

It is important to grow as many hybrids and varieties as possible on the estate in order to have a universal set of fruits for all uses. At the same time, it is advisable to keep a planting diary, writing down the names of the planted cucumbers and even saving photographs of the most typical specimens.

The technology of home cultivation of cucumbers in the open field is rich in nuances, but simple and easy to learn. The gardener's main weapon is patience, attentiveness and the ability to draw conclusions about the results of his work.

Description of the variety of cucumbers Herman

This type of cucumber belongs to F1 hybrids. These cucumbers are grown indoors and outdoors, as well as under temporary shelter. Since it is parthenocarpic, pollination is not required for it.

These cucumbers are distinguished by their early maturity and high yield. After the emergence of seedlings on the 36th day, the first cucumbers appear. On the 42nd day, the mass ripening of the fruits of this hybrid begins.

The ovary is formed in the form of bunches. Up to 9 cucumbers are formed in a bunch. You can take 12-15 kilograms of cucumbers from one meter. With good care, these numbers can skyrocket.

More than 95% of the harvest has a beautiful presentation. The cucumbers are small, gherkin type, and have the same size. The color of the fruit is dark green, the tubercles are white. The length reaches 12 centimeters, the diameter is about 3 centimeters.

The mass of Herman cucumbers reaches 80 grams. There is no bitterness even with untimely watering in the fruits of this variety, the taste is very good and leaves a sweetish aftertaste. The pulp is of medium density, always light green with whitish seeds.

This hybrid, when grown on a trellis, can reach 4 - 5 meters in height. The leaves are standard in shape and medium in size.

Benefits of the Herman variety

The seeds of this hybrid are coated with thiram, that is, they are covered with a protective nutritive shell. This allows you to increase germination up to 95%. Seeds are planted one seed at a time, they sprout quickly and do not require thinning. The yield also increases after this procedure.

If the purchased seeds have a natural unpainted appearance, then this is a fake and germination, and the very qualities of this hybrid do not inspire confidence.

  • Herman cucumbers have high resistance to mosaic, cladospornosis, powdery mildew.
  • This hybrid is unpretentious and grows well on different types of soil (with the addition of fertilizers).
  • Outdoors, it is grown both in southern regions and regions with cool climates.

These cucumbers are grown not only on private farms, but also for production on an industrial scale in greenhouses and open field for sale. The German variety always gives a high yield with excellent commercial quality. They can be grown not only in spring, summer and autumn, but also in winter in heated greenhouses. The variety has good transportability.

The shoots of this variety are quite powerful and do not break off even with a heavy load of ripe fruits.

The seed material of this hybrid is quite expensive.

After transplanting, young bushes may die and therefore require a large root ball of earth when transplanting.

When sowing seeds in the ground, the soil temperature cannot drop below 8 degrees, if this happened and the ground did not reach the required temperature for several days, the seeds or young bushes will die.

This variety is prone to rust damage. It can also be affected by aphids, rootworm nematodes, spider mites and therefore requires protective spraying with chemicals.


Technology for growing cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse

We figured out the temperature and humidity, then we should dwell on the nutrition of cucumbers in the greenhouse. 7 days after planting the seedlings of cucumbers in the greenhouse, the first feeding is carried out using small doses of nitrogen fertilizers (6-10 g / m2) and from the moment when the cucumber blooms, it is regularly fertilized with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Additionally, 5-10 g of magnesium sulfate is added per 1 m2. The total amount of fertilizers should not exceed 70g per square meter of area, otherwise you risk growing nitrate products.

Also, cucumbers in the greenhouse need foliar dressing with microfertilizers and macrofertilizers, use for this ammonium nitrate (10-15 g / 10 l), potassium sulfate (7-8 g / 10 l), urea (10-20 g / 10 l), superphosphate (10- 12 g / 10L). Microfertilizers for cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse - boric acid (5-7.5 g / 10 l), copper, zinc, cobalt sulfate (2 g / 10 l), baking soda (50 g / 10 l).

After spraying and watering, be sure to ventilate the greenhouse to prevent excessive moisture in the air. It is better to harvest cucumbers every other day, so the greens will ripen and food will be evenly distributed throughout the plant.

The profitability of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, including polycarbonate, is high, but before planting an area with cucumbers, choose a variety wisely, it is the varietal characteristics that determine the yield, the number of ovaries, the quality of the fruit and their size, the possibility of growing in greenhouse conditions, and durability to diseases, duration of fruiting, etc.

And, only then, the correct agricultural technology for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, which you will carry out with plants, can lead you to the coveted harvest and long-term fruiting. Again, the selection of a variety is very important when growing cucumbers in a greenhouse!


Watch the video: How to Grow Cucumbers - Complete Growing Guide


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