Atsia - How to cure and cultivate your Fatsia



There Fatsia in addition to being used as a houseplant, it is also very popular for decorating flower beds and gardens for the beauty of its large leaves.






: Angiosperms


: Eudicotyledons


: Asteris











: see the paragraph on "Main species"


There Fatsia belongs to the family of Araliaceae and is native to East Asia. It is used both as a houseplant and to adorn flowerbeds and gardens in areas with a mild climate. It is in fact a very imposing plant that can reach up to 5 m in height.Its peculiarity are the very large, palmate-lobed leaves, divided into 7-11 lobes of dark green color on the upper page and light green in the lower one that arrive to measure even 45 cm of width and are carried by long petioles.

The flowers are small, white-green in color gathered in an umbrella (to have a clearer idea they are very similar to those of the Ivy which belongs to the same family).

The fruits are black berries.

There Fatsia it is a plant that does not require special care, so it is very suitable for those who do not have a great deal of plant experience but want to start "great"


The genus includes few species but the most used for ornamental purposes is the Fatsia japonica.


There Fatsia japonica it is the most cultivated species and is found spontaneously in the coastal woods of Japan and South Korea. It is very appreciated for its autumn blooms. It is the species that contains all the characteristics of the genus with shrubby habit, intense green leaves even 40 cm long.

There are several cultivars among which we remember:

Fatsia japonica 'Aura'

slow growing and with variegated leaves;

Fatsia japonica 'Marginata'

deep-lobed leaves of gray-green color and white margins;

Fatsia japonica 'Varied'

(photo above right) with leaves with a large margin at the apex of the lobes of cream yellow color and several others.


The optimal temperatures for growing the Fatsia are between 10 and 18 ° C.

In summer, when temperatures are higher, it is advisable to guarantee good ventilation or move the plant to the garden or terrace, but away from direct sunlight.

In winter, if the temperature drops below 10 ° C, the earth must remain dry to avoid stress on the roots. If the plant is in a heated apartment try to place it in an unheated or poorly heated place. In fact, too high temperatures cause it to deteriorate quickly.

There Fatsia it needs a lot of light but not direct sun.

Being a plant with very large leaves, care must be taken that they are always clean. To do this, use a very soft and very damp cloth or wash them directly (if the size allows it) by transporting the plant into the bath tub or into the garden, where you will take the classic "shower"

Never use foliar polishes.


There Fatsia being a plant of considerable size and with a large leaf apparatus, it needs abundant watering during the spring - summer period so that the soil remains constantly humid (not soaked).

To maintain a humid environment around the plant, it is good to spray the leaves regularly with water.

It facilitates placing the pots on a layer of wet gravel (making sure that the bottom of the pot is not in contact with water).


There Fatsia repot in early spring when the pot has become too small both to support the plant and to contain the roots. A good fertilizer soil is used, consisting of peat and leaf soil with a slightly acid reaction (pH around 6-6.5).

It is essential to ensure good drainage, therefore place pieces of earthenware on the bottom of the pot that favor the drainage of excess water.

I always recommend using clay pots that favor the breathing of the earth.


As for watering, also the fertilizations must be constant.

During the whole spring and summer period, it is necessary to fertilize every two / three weeks with a liquid fertilizer administered together with the irrigation water.

As for the type of fertilizer to be administered, there are many types on the market but it is a good idea to read the label that specifies the composition.For all green plants, that is to say for those plants that develop many leaves, it is preferable to use fertilizers that we have quite high titre in nitrogen (N) which favors the development of the green parts. Therefore, make sure that in addition to having the so-called "macroelements" such as nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) and that among these nitrogen is in greater quantity than it also has microelements, that is to say those compounds that the plant needs in minimal quantities (but still needs it) such as magnesium (Mg), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), boron (B), polybdenum ( Mo), all important for a correct and balanced growth of the plant.

Slightly decrease the doses compared to what is stated on the package.


There Fatsia blooms in autumn, but rarely in the apartment.


Pruning is used when you want to give the plant a more compact shape. As it is a plant with rapid growth and considerable dimensions, the thin or too long branches can be cut in order to give it a more compact appearance.Be sure to always make a clean and precise cut so as not to have frays that heal very difficult. cutting tool (shears, scissors, razor blades, etc.) must be cleaned and disinfected. Always cut just above a leaf or bud in other words just above the leaf attachment point or above a knot.

The wound must then be treated with sulfur-based fungicide products to avoid any infections.

Pruning takes place in spring.


The multiplication of the Fatsia it can happen by seed, in winter or spring you can use i suckers that detach from the base of the plant or by cuttings.


The cuttings can be taken either at the beginning of spring or at the end of the summer about 10 cm long.

It is recommended to cut with a razor blade or a sharp knife to avoid fraying of the fabrics taking care that the tool used for cutting is clean and disinfected.

After removing the lower leaves, the cut part is immersed in a rhizogenic powder to facilitate rooting.

Subsequently, the cuttings are arranged in a compound made up of two parts of fertile soil and one of coarse sand. Holes are made with a pencil, as many as there are cuttings and they are arranged as shown in the photo. Then take care to gently compact the soil.

The box or pot is covered with a transparent plastic sheet (or a hooded bag) and placed in a place where there is abundant light (but not direct sunlight) and at a temperature around 25 ° C, taking care to keep the soil. always slightly humid (always water without wetting the rooting plants with water at room temperature). Every day the plastic is removed to control the humidity of the soil and to eliminate condensation from the plastic.

Once the first shoots begin to appear (5/6 weeks), it means that the cutting has taken root. At that point he removes the plastic and places the pot in a brighter area, at the same temperature and expects the tales to strengthen.

Once they have grown sufficiently large and have produced vigorous new shoots, they transplant into the vasoo in the final soil.

Do not disturb the cuttings until the new shoots have been placed.


Leaves appear faded and pale green

If the leaves appear in this way, it means that the plant has not been fertilized.
Remedies: fertilize immediately following the instructions given in the paragraph "fertilization" and then follow a regular fertilization plan.

Crumpled and sparse leaves and long stems

Very often this is a symptom of an environment that is too hot and dry.
Remedies: move the plant to a cooler place and better regulate the nebulizations to the canopy.

Wilted leaves

If the leaves of yours Fatsia sagged means that the plant gets too much water.
Remedies: reduce watering.

Spots on the underside of the leaves

Spots on the underside of the leaves could mean that you are in the presence of cochineal and in particular mealy cochineal. To be sure, it is recommended that you make use of a magnifying glass and observe yourself. Compare it with the photo on the side. They are features, you can't go wrong. Also if you try to remove them with a fingernail, they come off easily.

Remedies: remove them with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol or if the plant is large and potted, you can wash it with water and neutral soap, rubbing very gently with a sponge to remove the parasites, after which the plant is varisced very well to eliminate all the soap. For larger plants planted outdoors, you can use specific pesticides available from a good nurseryman.

Leaves that begin to turn yellow, appear mottled with yellow and brown

If the leaves begin to turn yellow and after these manifestations crumple, they take on an almost powdery appearance and fall off. Observing carefully you can also notice some thin cobwebs especially on the underside of the leaves. With this symptomatology we are very likely in the presence of an attack of red spider, a very annoying and harmful mite.

Remedies: increase the frequency of nebulizations to the foliage (the lack of humidity favors their proliferation) and possibly, only in the case of particularly serious infestations, use a specific insecticide. If the plant is not particularly large, you can also try cleaning the leaves to mechanically eliminate the parasite using a wet and soapy cotton ball. After that the plant must be rinsed very well to remove all the soap.

Presence of small whitish animals on the plant

If you notice small white-yellowish-greenish mobile insects you are almost certainly in the presence of aphids or as they are commonly called lice.Observe them with a magnifying glass and compare them with the photo on the side, they are unmistakable, you can't go wrong.

Remedies: treat the plant with specific pesticides readily available from a good nurseryman.


In the family of Araliaceae we find a more famous representative such asPanax ginseng better known simply as eginseng.

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